What happened and, more importantly, what didn’t happen at the Michelin Guide Thailand 2023 unveiling

As the gastronomic world’s most sought-after stardust settles on the Michelin Guide Thailand 2023’s newly anointed winners at this year’s event at the Athenee Hotel, let’s consider what happened in parallel with the largely unspoken what didn’t happen.

Up front, we must acknowledge the TAT’s efforts in bringing the Michelin Guide to Thailand six years ago. This, matched with the credibility of the red book, has no doubt brought about a culinary revolution to Thailand. An explosion of both Thai and non-Thai restaurant talents has resulted in an exponential increase in the number, variety, and indeed quality of dining options across the country. Together with long-standing, authentic, local restaurants and our world-beating street food, Thailand now competes on the global culinary landscape.

This year’s announcement showcased an increase in featured establishments to 441 from a previous 361 in 2022, and five new one-star awards to be added to the 24 retained. With the six two-star restaurants remaining unchanged, we now have 35 starred restaurants across the country.

Those well-deserved new one-star Bangkok awardees are Signature at the Vie Hotel under chef Thierry Drapeau; Baan Tepa, helmed by chef Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam; Haoma, led by chef Deepanker “DK” Khosla; Maison Dunand, chef Arnaud Dunand’s recent opening; and Restaurant Potong, headed up by chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm.

The Michelin Guide’s drive to recognize sustainability, alongside TAT’s own, resulted in a new green star for Haoma in Bangkok and for chef Rick Dingen at Jampa in Phuket, the sister restaurant of Pru which retained both its own green star and one-star accolades.

The Young Chef award went to Davide Garavaglia, head chef at the one-starred Cote by Mauro Colagreco located at Capella Bangkok. The award for Service went to Uthit Songtho, restaurant manager of Baan Phraya at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, and the Sommelier award was given to Guillaume Perdigues of the two-starred Mezzaluna at Lebua. A new award was launched this year of Opening of the Year, given to chef Pam for Restaurant Potong.

All these talents should be celebrated, along with the other 30 restaurants that retained their awards this year and their incredibly hard-working teams. This continuous journey to deliver to diners a consistently superlative culinary standard is truly demanding, requiring a never-ending commitment. So, hats off to all!

Unexplained, mentioned only in murmurs, both Ginza Sushi Ichi and Saawaanwere were absent from the list of retained stars, discreetly relocated to the recommended selection. Surprisingly, also not featured on the one-star list but added to the recommended selection, Samuay & Sons in Udon Thani, who were strongly tipped to gain the accolade.

There was a sense of anticipation leading up to this year’s revelation, as in other countries where quite a number of new two- and three-star restaurants had been awarded. In fact, a couple of days prior, Spain and Portugal had each been recipients of two new three-star establishments. Yet, there were no dramatic promotions from one star to two for Thailand and none from two to three. One could wax lyrically about which restaurants are real contenders and those with one that should be considered for two. Perhaps a bigger question, however: does Thailand yet have a restaurant deserving of the ultimate award of three stars? Do any of our current two-star restaurants have that special something to compete on the highest stage? As evidenced by the 2023 list, Michelin believes not yet. We leave you to ponder this, as the mystique of the Michelin Guide continues to prevail.