Review

Owl Brasserie opened in 2023, is owned and run by chef Roman Sturn and his wife Kamolrat “Kate” Yodkam, with seasonal menus featuring classic European fare with occasional Asian touches. Begin with a complex signature dish of velvety duck liver butter, with the appearance of a mandarin orange, accompanied by stellar house-made brioche, reflecting chef Roman’s culinary talent. Other small bites include homemade silky smooth taramasalata of salted cod roe blended with olive oil and served with mini flatbreads. Follow with baked snow fish served alongside ethereally light potato purée, a fermented wing bean and fennel salad surrounded by a creamy dill sauce. For vegetarians try a stunning Japanese sweet potato gnocchi, brie cream and beetroot purée, sprinkled with candied pecans. Meat lovers can take advantage of the extensive range of premium cuts available in the grill section, be it an Australian Tajima ribeye MB 6/7 or a tasty grass-fed angus picanha. All grilled dishes are accompanied by garnishes and a choice of sauces from classic Béarnaise to rich peppercorn. Desserts are a high point, showcasing chef Roman’s pastry skills. Choose Chiang Mai chocolate with miso cream and raspberry sorbet or a comforting childhood favourite of baked rice pudding with strawberry ice cream and basil oil. The wine list, carefully curated by the couple, features many of their personal favourites.