Review

Operating as an artisan coffee shop during the daytime, chef Chattanapon and manager Salinthip Prangthapthim transform this humble café into an evening dining room serving modern European cuisine. A creative tasting menu leans towards Nordic influences, with a balance of both local and imported ingredients, and seasonal menus. The meal begins with several amuse-bouche, perhaps a generous quenelle of chicken liver pate, almost silky parfait in texture on a circular brioche, or piquant apple snail with lemon grass and fish sauce. The homemade toasted brioche is slightly charred, a combination of lusciously soft in the centre and crusty edges with a deliciously smooth sphere of shoyu or miso butter. Continue with Hokkaido scallops, with a passion fruit espuma drizzled with dill oil or dry-aged barramundi surrounded with green chilli sauce and scented with a hint of coriander. A pre-main of fjord trout in classic beurre blanc is skillfully executed. The main course can be ribeye with corn puree and a rich namtok jus, or dry-aged duck with capsicum puree and capsicum chutney in duck jus reduction; both expertly cooked. Desserts dazzle with combinations of banana ice cream with coconut milk sauce, salted cookies and pleasantly viscous caramel and rum baba soaked in Phraya rum, or a delightful wasabi panna cotta with melon.