Review

Newly arrived couple chef Adrien Delcourt and his partner, restaurant manager Manon Anton, with backgrounds in accoladed restaurants worldwide, are heralding in a new era with elevated modern French cuisine. The tasting menu offers diners fresh seafood dishes with choices of premium meats for mains. A crab dish is first to arrive, seasoned with Thai spices and peanut sauce, followed by uni in crustacean broth with a hint of lime. House-made bread and butter precedes a presentation of hot royale: bonito and fennel dotted with caviar. Tomato water and basil oil surprises with its simplicity, whilst scallop dazzles in a lemongrass and caviar sauce. The dishes here showcase classical culinary talent combined with a lightness and modernity of touch. Next up is langoustine ravioli with foie gras sauce. This leads to a pre-main of black cod in beurre blanc sauce topped with seaweed. The main course is either pigeon or Oguma A3 wagyu, both with a minimum of accompaniments enabling the quality of the meat and the structure of the sauces to speak volumes. A selection of cheeses is served at table with an array of chutneys, dried fruits and nuts. Dessert of chocolate ganache with vanilla is a stylish finale. The wine list is more than adequate and the wine pairing well curated.