Review

Mother arrived on the burgeoning Charoenkrung dining scene a couple of years ago, steadily building a loyal following who appreciate a straightforward, flavourful tasting menu of contemporary Thai cuisine. The modern interior features natural elements of wood, stone, and minerals, creating a warm and comforting vibe. Chef-owner Apis Jesadaporn works his magic in the ground-floor open kitchen, and there is a wooden staircase leading to a second-floor bar. In addition to the tasting menu, an à la carte option caters to diners who prefer a lighter, more choice-driven experience. Begin with a stellar bite of crunchy toasts topped with a layer of coconut cream mousse and chunks of crabmeat. Continue with corn ribs in spicy house mayonnaise and a house salad of cos lettuce with cured egg yolk lightly bathed in a distinctive Kapi sauce. This is clever cooking with creative, thoughtful combinations that generate nostalgia. Chef-owner Apis Jesadaporn’s roast pork shoulder in the Northern staple hung lay curry is a culinary achievement of moist, tender, slightly fatty meat topped with a rich and aromatic sauce. Other notable mains include roasted chicken glazed in E-San spices and an incredibly sweet grilled river prawn. There are many tempting dessert options, from toast bread with ripe mango to toasted rice ice cream with bacon, puffed rice, and waffle.