Review

Nusara is named after chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn’s and his brother and general manager Chaisiri “Tam” Tassanakajohn’s grandmother. The meal begins with a welcome drink in the lobby lounge, and then into the kitchen for beginning bites. Perhaps squid and black grouper kanom krok, or a crispy cup with naem lon. Then onto the rooftop for a glass of bubbly and a series of amuse-bouche, cleverly revealed from a cabinet in this satellite kitchen. Next, the main dining room, plush and elegant, with a memorable temple vista. Pairings are predominantly old-world matches. The tasting menu has a foundation of classic Thai with contemporary touches. The main meal starts with Hokkaido scallop partnered with a subtle and refreshing torch ginger sorbet. This is followed by a combination of squid, cucumber, heirloom tomato, and blue swimmer crab curry topped with crispy, multi-coloured rice noodles. Then a sharing course, including smoked chicken green curry, grilled river prawn salad, and several nam prik relishes. The main dish of beef krapao smoked short ribs with holey basil is finished tableside and accompanied by a comforting beef soup. Desserts of pink guava and roselle parfait and sago with young coconut are on-brand finales. A wide array of Thai-themed sweets reflects a clever mix of the old and the new.