Review

At Capella Bangkok, Phra Nakhon occupies a riverside location with outdoor tables that make the most of the Chao Phraya riverscape. A tribute to authentic Thai cuisine, chef Kannika Jitsangworn brings her heirloom recipes and wealth of culinary experience while maintaining a commitment to sustainability through partnerships with local artisan producers; many herbs and spices are also picked from the restaurant’s garden. Several set menus are available including a vegan option. Begin with a choice of appetisers, perhaps Chiang Mai-style prime rib beef or chicken thigh satay served with crunchy peanut sauce, and kor moo yang, an Isan staple of grilled marinated pork neck accompanied by house-made pickles and a super spicy sauce. Eschew the traditional tom yum and go for muek tom holay, a comforting squid soup with fried garlic, fried shallots and spring onions from Surat Thani. Chef Kannika’s signature dishes offer wok-fried Kurobuta pork belly with mixed hot chili and herbs, moo krob phad prik glua with crispy fried pork, and sen mee gaeng pu of swimmer crab in Southern yellow curry with coconut milk, betel leaves and vermicelli noodles. The menu presents homage to the locale with Charoenkrung favourites such as khao tom haeng and ped yang phra nakorn.