Review

Owners and chefs Songpol Barameeanan and Kavee Champanakorn have relocated from Yannawa to a stunning villa in Ekkamai, simultaneously lifting their intriguing culinary offerings to new heights. The dining room seats no more than 20fortunate diners, with an open kitchen dominating proceedings. The format is an extensive à la carte menu, requiring pre-ordering of dishes. The chefs provide helpful recommendations through their Line account. They shop at local markets every day, maintaining adherence to local produce and continuing to present heirloom recipes with added complexity. Beginning bites include crispy pancake with rich and sumptuous rice field crab fat sauce, a touch of Hua Hin caviar, and a Peking duck crispy skin snack with coconut and ginger purée. To follow, beef tongue with fermented fish relish, and a standout refined giant trevally carpaccio with black dots of Thai mackerel head caviar. Traditional goby fish sour soup with pork, and stir-fried, 7-day koji marinated Thai wagyu from Nakhon Phanom, with dee-phi leaves, are dishes to return for. Desserts include a modern take on mor gaeng with orange cake, pumpkin and pepper ice cream and a swoosh of egg custard.