Review

Ruen Urai, house of gold, occupies a century-old golden teak wood house off Surawongse Road, in the Rose Hotel, operating for some twenty years as a popular venue for authentic Thai cuisine. The original owner was a doctor of herbal medicine, and many dishes feature herbs and spices, claiming medicinal benefits. The characterful interior is packed with Asian antiques and Thai crafts. Begin your meal with a selection of mixed signature appetisers, including crispy cups with prawn salad, chicken in pandanus leaves and fried minced pork salad, well balanced and perfectly executed. Or choose house specials of tod mun goong, deep-fried prawn cakes, or bpu nihm jaa of devilled soft shell crab stuffed with sweet crab and juicy pork. Soups include tom yum goong with young coconut meat, a traditional variation adding a touch of natural sweetness. Of the many curries, a rich and aromatic massaman, best chosen with delicious lamb shank, to Southern style gaeng khua with pork spare ribs, or aromatic panaeng, are all prepared respecting the heirloom recipes. Desserts are a highlight, whether simple mango sticky rice or classic bua loy of glutinous rice dumplings simmered in coconut milk with carrot, pumpkin, pandanus leaves, and butterfly pea flowers, they do not disappoint.