Review

Chef Andrea Caminada’s Bangkok outpost opened four years ago with Arne Riehn as sous and pastry chef. Chef Arne has now taken the helm, the restaurant concept and sharing menu format continues, but now with bolder flavour combinations, more pronounced seasonings and comforting dishes, plus twists and touches from his time in Asia. The dining room is elegant and cosy, reflecting the interior of a nest from which Igniv gets its name, and service is presided over by the discreet presence of manager Thibaud Charlemarty. Starting the dining experience is an array of snacks: foie gras cone with yuzu and carrot, black truffle and mushroom duxelles, tuna tartare with horseradish and kohlrabi with basil. Endive salad with speck in a walnut dressing, a nod to a classic caesar, arrives accompanied by Igniv’s signature breads and whipped butter. This is followed by foie gras terrine and sweet wine jelly decorated with plum, served with a warm brioche. Multiple main courses are served including venison and rainbow trout, both with tasty sauces. The dessert offering is a worthy finale of a combination of traditional and innovative: chocolate soufflé, coffee blossom with rum and raisin and coconut, and white fungus with sea buckthorn and a hint of ginger. Upon departure, a visit to the candy store is mandatory.