Review

Pleasant surprises are guaranteed in a dining landscape as diverse as Bangkok. Thaan Charcoal Cooking, which continues to maintain a low profile, is such a place. Dishes of umami-laden gastronomy are produced from the Josper grill, with regularity and consistency. The emphasis is on prime cuts of meat, mostly beef, and premium seafood skilfully executed before diners’ eyes. The restaurant’s tasting menu for two is the way to go if you are dining à deux, however, an array of daily specials is offered along with a concise à la carte. Start with a trio of brioches topped with partnerships of wagyu A5 and uni, blue crab and caviar, and akami and soy mayo. This substantial opening salvo is followed by a meltingly juicy and tender wagyu short rib with a hatcho miso glaze and plump, juicy scallops sitting perkily amidst a pool of chicken fat butter. A perfectly cooked pink and marbled Japanese wagyu striploin threatens to take home the title, but it’s beaten to the punch by a Korean-inspired sotbab or stone pot rice that invites diners to fork together hanger steak, uni, truffle, and garlic for a luscious combination that is rich and memorable. Empty the last of a delicious pinot noir from a small, but well-assembled wine list, and contemplate a genuinely uplifting discovery.