Review

The Allium at The Athenee is the epitome of French fine dining, from the vibrant and luxurious décor with its grand chandelier to the menu offering. Overseeing the culinary and restaurant operations are chef Remi Verrier and restaurant manager Guillaume Perdigues. While various set menus are available, the à la carte showcases French classics with a light contemporary touch. Begin with hand-cut beef tartare dotted with pearls of Oscietra caviar and topped with runny duck egg, which adds another layer of richness. Or start with their fabled French onion soup, a potent crystal-clear broth. Follow with French oysters traditionally accompanied by mignonette sauce and lemon. For main course, pursue a refined rustic route with slow-cooked braised beef cheek confit topped with mashed potatoes and surrounded by beef jus. Seafood dishes are equally well executed; pan-fried Hokkaido scallops is dressed in a sweet pumpkin sauce and sprinkled with bacon, adding contrasting saltiness. Chef Verrier successfully balances tradition with modernity. Wagyu beef tenderloin is accompanied by grandma’s potato gratin; gooey, cheesy and comforting, sitting atop a stylish Bordelais sauce. Recommended desserts include baked alaska of vanilla, strawberry sorbet and chocolate finished with zesty Grand Marnier or a less elaborate crème brûlée with Bourbon vanilla and red berries. Restaurant manager Perdigues’s suggested wine pairings are a perfect fit.