Review

Set in a restored and converted Rama VII two-storey colonial house in an off-road location in Ratchathewi, Wana Yook is chef Chalee Kader’s homage to traditional khao gaeng, curry over rice. Entering this charming villa, one is struck by the spectacular glass-windowed kitchen. Cosy dining areas occupy both levels, simply decorated and comfortably furnished while maintaining the building’s character. A locally themed fruity welcome drink begins the meal, followed by tasty amuse-bouches, including braised chicken in fish sauce with a zesty pomelo salad, a red capsicum tartlet filled with chicken murtabak, roti, and sealed with ajard jelly, and fermented pork with rice crisps, accompanied by a crunchy peanut tuile in a betel leaf tart. The meal continues with a trio of standout dishes: cured big-eye trevally, Surat Thani fish gaeng kua, and tiger prawn tom klong. On to beef massaman with longkong fruit, fried chicken skin, and pickled mustard salad. Following a stellar squid with coconut and mangosteen, Wana Yook-style khao gaeng is presented—a full tray with a selection of dishes, including Jasmine wagyu, gaeng sab nok chicken breast, stir-fried phadcha with northern frog’s legs, rice, and condiments, along with maggi-cured duck egg yolk. Dessert is toddy palm with bael fruit pandan tea and tasty modern kanom. The wine pairing is a good choice.