After a two-year hiatus, Bangkok International Fashion Week (BIFW) returned, ready to exceed expectations. Spanning September 21-25, the five-day fashion marathon showcased 15 collections by household brands as well as fresh-face couturiers, with the ‘The visionary stage’ at Siam Centre spotlighting the works of industry newcomers and fashion students across Thai universities.

Fashion week is also high time for spotting celebrity fashion moments, from the front row to final walks. This year brought forth cameos from multi-talented Metinee “Lukkade” Kingpayom, fan favourite actors Suppasit “Mew” Jongcheveevat, Putthipong “Bilkin” Assaratanakul, Krit “PP” Amnuaydechkorn et al.

Catching up on fashion week can be overwhelming. Lucky for you, Koktail has narrowed down Autumn Winter 2022 shows that not only make a case on the runway but are also just as loud in the messages behind the garments.

We have one question for Poem designer Chavanon ‘Sean’ Caisiri: Does your back hurt from carrying Bangkok International Fashion Week? Because Poem gave a standout show that will be imprinted in our temporal lobe for quite some time.

Over the years, Poem has made a name for sculpting elegant hourglass garments. Fans of the brand will instinctively recognise their iconic frou-frou skirts, ombre effects, and meticulous tailoring that fits the wearer like an ethereal second skin. Perhaps the only thing missing from this fantasy was the fact that the small waist-wide hips combo might not be for everyone, and Poem sure took note.

The word on everyone’s lips during the show was inclusivity. Staying faithful to their house code, Poem’s “Magical Duality” collection enhanced the curvaceous silhouette onto traditional signals of menswear. Weaving side slits into structured fabrics, patching lace on suits and pockets on A-line dresses, Poem proved that you can have the best of both worlds.

Beyond the fluidity between mens- and womenswear, the brand has birthed a transcendental galaxy that welcomes diverse body types, genders, ages, and walks of life. The star-studded catwalk saw the faces of Miss Universe, namely Maria Poonlertlarp, Natalie Glebova, and Anchilee Scott-Kemmis. LGBTQ+ icons were also represented by the likes of Drag Race Thailand superstar Angele Anang; Jiratchaya “Mo” Sirimongkolnawin, winner of Miss Tiffany’s Universe 2016; Thachpacha “Gus” Setthachai, author of Diary of Tootsies; and more. Even the Thai political scene received a surprise shoutout by none other than Dr. Preechaya Sittipunt—sister of Bangkok governor Chadchart—strutting down the runway.

Greyhound Original’s AW 2022 collection titled, LISTEN TO THE FUTURE (yes, in all caps), is a huge caution sign that brings awareness to transgenerational issues such as global warming, human rights, and artificial intelligence. Designers Pasin Sa-ingthong and Pongsathon Pairloy have stuck to Greyhound’s aesthetic of oversized silhouettes and utilitarian fit, while introducing a sustainable approach of using natural textiles like cotton and fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles to minimise pollution during the collection’s production process. The designs themselves toy with concepts of deconstruction and distortion, imitating shadows, illustrations, and knit with screenprinting techniques. As we grasp for threads of reality, Greyhound Original grounds us with their core ethos of “basic with a twist”—an effortless sporty-meets-street style that sends a powerful message.

Now on to the BIFW presentation. At this point, you’ve probably seen the Matrix-esque footage from Greyhound Original’s sloped catwalk. The brand upped the antics for the runway to match the social integrity of the collection. Opening the show with Juttima Chinnasri, a disabled survivor from Meningococcal type B, Greyhound Original pushed the envelope for more visibility in the fashion scene. Placing an importance on diverse types of bodies, the show continued to use models across age range, ethnicity, and builds; another living proof that a well-designed garment should be accessible to everyone.

To shop Poem’s AW 2022 collection, visit poembangkok.com.
To shop Greyhound Original, visit greyhound.com.