If you’ve ever driven down Witthayu Road, you’ve probably spotted a statuesque black door with delicate gold writing spelling out the name Royal Osha. Behind the gleaming door lies one of Bangkok’s most impressive Thai restaurants, set in an opulent space that blends elements of modern Thai design with traditional architecture.
Head through the dining room and enter the private chef’s table area, set inside an intimate glasshouse, and you’ll immediately feel a shift in ambience as the warm sunlight peeks through translucent blinds. Sat alongside the open kitchen, chef’s table diners can view the preparation of each dish before it lands on the table. At the helm, owner slash chef Kewalin Pithayanukul and her partner in crime, executive chef Vichit Mukura, prioritise the use of seasonal ingredients and the restaurant’s organically grown herbs. The finished product is a menu infused with timelessness, passion, and dedication.
Appetisers are up first. Planting the seeds of hunger, the chef duo presents thong muan tom yum kung caviar for a surprising starter. Generally, thong muan is served as a sweet and salty crispy roll void of any fillings. Royal Osha’s take adds a creamy tom yum stuffing, and a topping of caviar and fresh herbs for extra dimension. Take it all in a single bite for an aromatic and satisfying crunch.
Next up, the watermelon with conch, beetroot and dried fish packs a heaty punch while paying respect to Thai folklore. The conch is known for its association with the traditional tale of Sang Thong—a prince who lived in a golden conch shell. In this edible reference, rare Japanese conch is roasted and infused with Himalayan salt, and sat atop a slice of watermelon. Savour the unique ingredients with the nearby spicy and tangy beetroot granita. But we will warn you, this one’s quite the wild card.
Grounding you with its silky touch, the egg-sausage consomme with french chicken foie gras and crispy chicken skin is here to save the day. For those still reeling from the heat of the previous dish, the egg sausage mixed with foie gras will do more than soothe your senses. The texture and taste in this dish is reminiscent of an essential Thai home cooked meal called gaeng jued, but with an underlying richness and playfulness from the crispy chicken skin.
At this point, you’ve probably gathered that Royal Osha is a pro at taking familiar Thai dishes and flipping them on their head. And the stir fried lobster with celery and jaew-grilled lamb with red jasmine rice is a prime example. The flavours achieve a professional blend of fusion cuisine, albeit one we’d never thought to see on the same plate.
When it comes to the dessert, Royal Osha has this department down to a tee. Taking after the traditional Thai method of ending a savoury meal on a saccharine note, the sohm choon jelly and kaffir lime in syrup heaps Thai and Japanese seasonal fruits and surprises with smoked onion and ginger. Make sure to cut through the fizzy orange jelly at the bottom for another layer of complex depth in this fruit bowl.
The mung bean dumpling, khanom krok with mango sticky rice and coconut-stuffed dough, are champions of textbook Thai sweets. Make your way through the treats one by one, starting with the mung bean dumplings, made from black glutinous rice flour and sesame sugar. Follow it up with khanom krok (coconut pancake) in one go for the full effect of the miniature mango sticky rice filling. Round up the course with the coconut-stuffed dough, steamed and stuffed with shredded coconut.
The winter edition of Royal Osha’s chef’s table comes in three formats: five courses, eight courses, or twelve courses. The line up will be available from November 1st to January 31st.
99 Royal Residence Park Lumphini
Open daily 11am–3pm, 6–11pm
(Reservations required one week in advance for the chef's table)