Review

Appia, named after the ancient road that connected Rome with Apulia, is a buzzy neighbourhood trattoria opened over ten years ago and still going strong. Owner Paolo Vitaletti, the renowned and ever-jovial Bangkok restaurateur, is frequently on-hand ably supported by a long-serving team. The menu rarely changes but the blackboard above the open kitchen is updated with specials of the day and organic dry-aged beef. Wine flows freely from a mostly Italian wine list, available by glass and bottle. This is a fun and wonderfully reliable restaurant to visit for any occasion. The menu is rooted in Roman tradition, celebrating the region’s fine produce and rustic recipes. Begin with Appia’s famous chicken liver crostini, silky pate, accompanied by grilled sourdough and dusted with Maldon salt. Alternatively, or additionally, choose traditional Puglian caprese salad of marinated tomato with grilled eggplant. Everything is recommended, including a butterhead salad of guanciale, sweet gorgonzola, tomatoes, pears and drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette. Dishes are generous, flavours punchy and moreish. Pastas to follow, fresh cavatelli with lamb ragu, cacio e pepe or delicious carbonara, with slightly salty pecorino, or pappardelle with crab, tomatoes, and rocket. Mains of lamb ribs with rosemary gremolata and porchetta with fennel pollen and apple compote taste as good as they sound. Paolo’s mother’s tiramisu just might be the best in town.