Review

Head chef Ravi Kumar and his colleagues have created an extensive a la carte menu and multi-course tasting options showcasing classic flavours of India in modern interpretations that chime perfectly with the restaurants contemporary vibe. Having learnt his craft in award-winning international kitchens, chef Kumar is familiar with leading edge cooking techniques and molecular gastronomy. He is much inspired by non-traditional ingredients such as truffle, foie gras, caviar and salmon as he is by native herbs, spices and tandoor cooking of his homeland. Fine examples of his ability to combine the best of both culinary cultures are a starter of wild mushrooms in cream infused with garlic and truffle essence and his signature take on succulent malai chicken tikka, given a unique extra layer and depth with the addition of piquant blue cheese. Consider a side dish of fried eggplant in a flavourful tomato sauce as a sharp counterfoil to the richness of both and enjoy the meal with pillowy naan bread hot from the tandoor. Pastry chef Arun Periyathambi’s delicious rasmalai, of flat cheese dumplings soaked in sweetened reduced milk and garnished with chopped green pistachio nuts, is a satisfying note on which to end. Diners can take the flavours of Benares home via its adjoining fast-food service, where sweet and savoury Indian street food favourites are available.