Review

Bisou burst onto the Bangkok culinary landscape just over a year ago, attracting attention from those seeking authentic French dishes in a fun ambience. Business partners Theo Lavergne and Antoine Darquin, respectively taking care of the restaurant and kitchen, have expanded their wine offering to 250 labels, many available by the glass and showcasing low intervention gems. They deliver ever more creative plates, focusing on premium ingredients, flavours and consistency. An evening at Bisou, should begin with sharing bites, perhaps Bisou fried chicken with sour cream, fluffy gougeres, stuffed with Comté cheese with Iberico ham or a sophisticated French toast, layered with foie gras, smoked eel and a sprinkling of slightly sea salty French caviar. Follow with mini tartares of beef tenderloin with rosti, Harukami tuna or an exquisite Hamachi ceviche with dry-aged kalamansi citrus. For mains, the wood-fired oven comes into play; hanger steak arrives perfectly pink, accompanied by onion bone marrow and baby chicken. Signatures abound, such as French pigeon stuffed with foie gras and smoked eel and monkfish tail with crushed potato in a glossy mushroom emulsion. Sides and sauces receive the same attention to detail. Desserts include palet Breton with yoghurt ice cream and hibiscus, a lesson in finesse. For wine, take recommendations from Theo or sommelier Louis Chartier.