Review

Chef Phanupol “Black” Bulsuwan and partner, Anothai “Beer” Pichaiyuth, continue to pioneer sustainability in their landmark homage to holistic Thai cuisine in Chiang Mai. Incorporating modern curing and fermentation techniques, their culinary style is not easy to define, but their mission to support artisan farmers, fishermen, and the community as a whole, combined with a genuine passion for delivering innovative high-level dishes, continues unabated. The charming second-floor restaurant exudes a rustic charm, with an open kitchen where one may watch the intense focus of chef Black and his team.

Out front, Beer effortlessly narrates the dishes while offering knowledgeable suggestions for pairings. They have expanded their range of beverages to include a wide array of umeshu and sake, a variety of orange and natural wines, and chef Black’s home brews.

Dishes that dazzled recently include kua kapi of swimmer crab and hash browns in a delicious krill sauce, moo yang bai cha plu showcasing stellar black pig with pineapple relish, and an incredibly flavourful oyster and bacon paté. Beef bavette, or flap steak, with perfectly executed barley risotto and Chinese chive root is hugely satisfying.

Desserts are Beer’s domain, cleverly conceptual, and ultimately successful—sour plum with roselle powder followed by ice creams of cheese and earl grey, all locally sourced.