Review

Culinary couple chef Dan Bark and partner, Tanjira “Fay” Tragoolvongse maintain a loyal following at their elegant Bangkok restaurant. The seasonally changing menu takes inspiration from chef Dan’s favourite life stories. It begins in the retro cocktail bar, with a choice of martinis mixed with ingredients representing cities where Dan enjoyed chapters in his life: Seoul, Chicago, and now Bangkok. Next, through to a unique mirrored room for a trio of bites that could include chicken liver mousse with tamarind and pomelo, and petite bacon jam doughnut with malt vinegar and maple syrup. Then to the tranquil dining room and observe the silent drama unfolding in the open kitchen, where verbal communication seems unnecessary. Next up is Alaskan king crab with nasturtium, apple, and almond preceding a caviar course with a memorable combination of celeriac, lemon, and scallion. Chef Dan has brought to Bangkok, a wealth of culinary experience gained at name a couple of places. Exceptional dishes follow one after another: rich duck and pumpkin soup, tuna tartare, and a trademark wagyu beef with sesame, broccoli, and yuzu. Bigeye trevally with foie gras is stunningly executed. A dark chocolate semifreddo follows dessert of lychee, blueberry, pistachio, and toasted rice. Pairings are innovative, with three stellar options: wine, cocktail, and a soft choice.