Review

Catch and Co. near Thap Lamu Pier, situated to take advantage of the freshest catch just off the boats, is a new project by chef Phanupol “Black” Bulsuwan of celebrated restaurant Blackitch Artisan Kitchen in Chiang Mai. This is a sophisticated fish and chip shop, the striking glass-fronted building delights upon entry. The interior is simple: tables surround a white tiled counter, walls supporting dry-agers packed with fish, and shelves hosting jars of koji and kombuchas. The refined menu is augmented by a large blackboard, chalked with daily specials with helpful indications of the fish flesh: firm, tender, juicy, sweet, or chewy. Choose the standard or premium catch of the day from starry emperor, orange-spotted grouper, cloudy grouper, tang’s snapper, or painted sweetlips, all line-caught. Add sauces from a comprehensive array, including tublamu hot, salted fish caesar, egg tartar, or lemon chilli jam. Then pick from sides of sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, or French fries. While awaiting some of the best fish and chips in Thailand, consider a plate of sashimi, with ponzu or nam jim jaew. The ingredients arrive super fresh and then are dry-aged under the watchful eye of Chef Black; the result never in doubt—a stellar fish supper. Beverage offerings include a range of local umeshu and sake, homemade sodas, and a good selection of low-intervention wines.