Review

Chef Vincent Thierry and restaurant manager Louise Bourgeois deliver contemporary cuisine and service at peak level at Chef’s Table. Located on one of the highest floors of the Lebua State Tower, views are breathtaking as you gaze beyond the lavish drapes over Bangkok’s nighttime cityscape. Then turn inward to observe the brass-plated stainless steel hood encompassing chef Vincent’s spectacular Molteni kitchen and the unforgettable choreographed service led by Louise. The encyclopedic wine list is best dealt with via sommelier Lea Puyelo, whose wine pairings are exemplary. Menus change seasonally; Frenchman chef Vincent has always offered two distinct choices, making a delightful evening when dining à deux. Plates are never overcrowded, flavours always defined, combinations, while often with a hint of classicism, cleverly updated with style and a touch of culinary panache. Highlight dishes are too many to mention all, however Brittany lobster with green pea and sea urchin chawanmushi, smoked langoustine in an aromatic green curry, and poached chicken with brown jus, black truffle surrounded with albufera sauce are all faultlessly executed. Mains compete for the ultimate accolade, with veal sweetbread with dark beer and mushroom infusion winning. An extensive cheese board is unmissable, and desserts of rhubarb confit vacherin with coconut ice cream and jasmine and dark chocolate mille-feuille with fir bud aroma and cocoa sorbet dazzle.