Review

Cosmo, an all-day dining restaurant at Nai Harn, provides diners with a stunning ocean vista. While a world-class breakfast is served in the mornings, lunch and dinner are no less of an event. Cosmo’s menu is inspired by classic European bistro and brasserie cuisine, with modern touches alongside an extensive selection of Thai classics. Chef Mark Jones helms the kitchen and new dishes have emerged and become popular, while successful staples remain. Begin with Brittany sardines grilled and served on freshly toasted bruschetta with house-made pesto and marinated tomatoes, which is piquant and flavourful. Or consider Okinawa scallop, pan-fried and served with cauliflower, truffle and coppa ham crisp. As they say, the devil is in the detail. Mains have a focus on premium beef; however, a stunning exception is salmon rockefeller, pan-roasted Norwegian salmon supreme with sauté potatoes, crispy pancetta and creamed spinach with Pommery mustard and Parmesan cream. For steak, choose from 200-day grain-fed Ebony black Angus tenderloin or JBS Angus sirloin, both accompanied by Béarnaise sauce with a hint of tarragon. Thai favourites include comfort dishes such as som tam, laab moo and tom yum goong. Curry-wise, choose from sea bass in aromatic choo chee sauce or chicken in a not-too-thick green curry.