Review

Established over two decades ago by father and son team Giancarlo and Nicola Bonazza, Enoteca occupies a beautifully restored garden villa off Sukhumvit Road. Long a leading light for those seeking classic Italian cuisine in Bangkok, admirably maintained today by head chef Federico Orru. Enoteca, meaning ‘wine library’ boasts an excellent wine list dominated by Italian labels. Italian beers such as Menabrea appear on the drinks list. From the a la carte menu, begin with a shared board of mixed Parma hams, salami, and Parmesan cheese before moving on to a pasta course. Ravioli filled with foie gras and guinea fowl is recommended, as is tagliolini cooked in the style of a carbonara. For mains try lamb rack in black garlic crumble with a divine shallot sauce, accompanied by deep-fried saffron rice and bell pepper. An alternative from the sea is filetto di branzino, seabass with velvet-like Jerusalem artichoke cream and earthy, fragrant black truffle also pigeon in a cacciatora sauce with stuffed olives and tomatoes, with green beans wrapped in Italian bacon, sitting alongside. The hearty of appetite will appreciate classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina of 270-day grain-fed Angus T-bone cooked pink, the striploin full of flavour and the tenderloin meltingly moist, with sauteed spinach and roasted potatoes. End a fine meal with strawberry panna cotta with strawberry ice cream.