Review

Favola at Le Meridien commands a tranquil location on the banks of the Mae Kok River. Dining can be on the outdoor terrace or within a contemporary indoor space. The open kitchen provides a touch of theatre, best enjoyed from the high table in front of the counter. The daytime menu offering is slightly lighter, with a full Italian menu on display in the evening. Begin with beef carpaccio of slivers of tenderloin sprinkled with wild rocket and shavings of parmesan, drizzled with truffle oil, or well-executed caprese salad composed of local tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, Italian basil, and a punchy pesto sauce, finished with a generous pour of olive oil. Pasta is highly recommended, among the best is house-made squid ink pici with prawns, mussels, calamari, and scallops in a rich lobster bisque. Osteria staples are also available including lasagna bolognaise, fettuccine alla alfredo, and rigatoni carbonara, correctly made without cream. Gourmet pizzas are a great choice including Parma ham and burrata, four cheeses, smoked salmon and mascarpone cheese. Meat platters include a selection of boutique wagyu cuts, lamb, pork, and tasty imported veal. Dessert offers a wide choice of the classic, panna cotta, tiramisu, affogato, or tiramisu affogato for the sweet-toothed. A short wine list provides appropriate options for all.