Review

On Bangkok’s food scene, high value is placed on the shiny and new when harnessing dining trends. Yet, often, it pays to go back to the classics. Such a philosophy is paying dividends at Gaston, a take on a traditional Parisian restaurant du quartier that fills the expansive basement-level space formerly occupied by the legendary Spasso with joie de vivre. A wine list devoted to French bottles flies the flag for Gallic viticulture. Driving the culinary side of proceedings is chef Federico Costanzo, whose passion for honest French dishes prepared with care, love and a good amount of flair shines through in a small but perfectly conceived menu that covers familiar bistro favourites alongside a smattering of surprises. Of the former, there’s zero to fault about a generous plate of escargots doused in pungently rich garlic and herb butter. Also exemplary is entrecote grillée of black Angus ribeye served with a rich café de Paris herb butter sauce and unlimited quantities of French fries. Salmon en croûte packs plenty of dill and citrus flavours into its fish and fresh spinach-filled interior, and lobster ceviche with generous moist chunks of crustacean feels equally fresh and uplifting. Close proceedings with Catalan cream, tarte tatin or profiteroles and gleefully watch your diet plan disappearing through the window.