Review

Horsamut is in a nondescript soi in historic Phra Nakhon. A small neon-lit sign sits discreetly on the street corner, the only indication of the restaurants existence. Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya and facing Wat Arun the views from an open rooftop are spectacular. Upon entering the open kitchen you will see a gently bubbling mammoth pot of deliciously slow-cooked overnight signature stewed pork, moo kong kang. The extensive menu is packed with dishes originating in coastal towns, such as Hat Yai, Surat Thani and Trat. Begin with a generous plateful of steamed prawn and chicken dumplings in a rich dark soy sauce sprinkled with crispy roasted chilis. Next up, a platter of crunchy salt and chili-dusted chunks of mole crab. Charcoal grilled scallops, drizzled with cognac and elegantly served in the shell, are among the best in town. River prawns are grilled over a mangrove wood charcoal fire, lending the prawn flesh a mild yet noticeably fruity and sweet smoky profile. Kong kang pork belly caramelised and cooked in a mangrove wood charcoal clay oven with multiple layers of flavour, lingers on the tongue. Finish with a dessert of local fruits or ice cream.