Review

Iode is the epitome of a modern Parisian bistro with its neighbourhood location, brightly coloured awning, bustling open kitchen and dining tables perilously close to each other, all contributing to a lively ambience. Owner and chef Franck Le Bayon has recently been joined by veteran Bangkok chef Victor Baudu, presenting neo bistro cuisine now with extended hours. Begin with any of the imported French seafood, glistening fresh platters of mussels, clams, scallops and langoustines. Or choose from the wide selection of premium oysters, French fine-de-claire or Irish ostra regal. Continue with cockles in beurre blanc, crunchy golden croquettes stuffed full with grey shrimp in a classic bisque cocktail sauce, or the lusciously rich specialty potato dauphine with Béarnaise. Smoked tarama, with lovage oil and buckwheat crisps, are ever popular. Chef Franck’s classical culinary roots shine through in a stunning bavette flank with red wine, shallot, anchovy sauce, and monkfish, surrounded by a glossily sheened matelote red wine sauce, a sprinkling of hazelnuts, and fresh salad. Sharing dishes are exemplary; the legendary house special, dry-aged seabream sashimi with yuzu kosho vinaigrette and whole turbot in beurre blanc with oloroso, green oil and croutons is a dish dreams are made of. An ample selection of wines, French heavy, offers several by glass.