Review

Lauded concept creator and chef Hari Nayak together with head chef Sanchit Sahu have turned Jhol into a favourite contemporary dining destination. Here the emphasis is on unique coastal-inspired dishes epitomised by signatures including Calicut pepper prawns, Kerala mutton roast and Alleppey fish curry. Expect a warm welcome from seasoned restaurateur Anirban Nandi and his efficient front-of-house team as you sip a bespoke cocktail at the stylish bar. Then from the menu, a masterful balance of traditional flavours and refined techniques, begin with Inji puli pork ribs in which ginger and tamarind spice-glazed meat falls from the bone. Add another starter of Cuttack dahi bara aloo dum, a comforting combination of spiced buttermilk-soaked lentil dumplings and potato curry. Also noteworthy is soft-shelled tangra chilli crab in a Kolkota-inspired hot garlic sauce. Chittinad lamb shank takes centre stage with ultra-tender slow-cooked meat in a piquant aromatic gravy. Ideal for sharing, it is the perfect dish to savour with a side of palakura pappu, Andhra-style spinach daal, and wonderfully flaky warm Malabar parotta. From the dessert menu Bengali phirni featuring gobindo bhog rice, burnt meringue, lemon curd and coconut ice cream is a decadent finish but after such a fulsome repast you may want to consider the ever so slightly more modest salted caramel espresso martini.