Review

Bangkok has no shortage of restaurants preserving tradition, but few take it as seriously and successfully as Jirakaan. Located on Sukhumvit 51, this restaurant delves into Rattanakosin-era recipes with an air of reverence and a seasonal menu, proving that while they honour history, they’re not afraid to innovate. Begin with taro bat, an heirloom snack that’s delicate and intriguing; crispy taro shell encases a savoury blend of shiitake mushrooms, jicama, and taro, while a coconut cream a-jard adds just enough sweetness to balance the earthy richness, giving it a flavour profile more refined than expected from a centuries-old snack. However, khao kluk rama five is where drama unfolds, with grilled beef belly, profoundly charred and smoky, resting atop a bed of shrimp paste-infused rice, the roasted dried chilli offering a slow, satisfying burn. It’s bold, unapologetic, and utterly compelling. Peek gai kaeng som hang todd grob, crispy chicken wings dusted with kaeng som powder, provides a hit of tangy spice and a satisfying crunch, making it the perfect foil to the spiciness that rounds the meal. The drinks list is concise and well-judged. Thai-inspired cocktails, including lemongrass and ginger, gin and tonic, are thoughtfully paired with the food, adding a light, herbal aromatic fragrance that complements rather than competes. The wine list, though modest, covers the expected bases.