Review

Juksunchae burst onto the Bangkok restaurant landscape a couple of years ago with its distinctive and pioneering brand of Korean fine dining. Executive chef Henry Lee remains at the kitchen helm, switching from lead dish assembler to narrator as he proudly informs diners of ingredients, techniques and intended flavour profile, with occasional back stories on origins of the dish. Tasting menus come in two sizes, seven-course and twelve-course. Seated around the open kitchen, the dining experience is a stage show with Henry at the centre, coordinating all acts. The meal begins with a full-flavoured tomato kimchi granita, followed by an elegant dashima cured scallop with watermelon. Next up, house-made tofu with uni and ikura in a delicate broth. Then a stand out 14-day aged yukoe with saeng soen caviar, picture perfect and harmonious flavours. Continue with wild squid bathed in Jjamppong sauce, the squid skillfully sliced to resemble noodles, appropriate for the spicy sauce. Sorbet of white kimchi with pear offers a pleasant interlude before a stunning Haenyeo hand-dived Wando abalone. Jeju black pork with thick samjang sauce is packed with savoury notes. A complex dessert combination of chamgireum and ganjang of sesame with salty umami soy sauce is a memorable ending. Wine pairings are available in four, six, and eight glasses.