Review

Kavee, poet in Thai, is chef Worathon “Tae” Udomchalotorn’s tribute to seasonal Thai cuisine given a creative twist, utilising classic and contemporary techniques to present dishes as interesting as a well-composed poem. Located on the ground floor of a stylish apartment block, the petite dining room, with an open kitchen counter, affords diners a bird’s eye view of the action. Tasting menus follow a seasonally changing theme; ‘signatures’ to celebrate the restaurant’s third anniversary begins with circular fresh fluffy milk bread loaf with Khao Yai butter and a trio of amuse-bouche, served including a refreshing kanom jeen sao nam. Next is a stunning and intriguing crab fat congee cappuccino, followed by chicken wings stuffed with delicious sticky rice and truffle, partnered with chef’s som tam. Pre-main of seven-day dry-aged duck is exceptional, served with a glossy sauce. Preceding the main course is a zesty orange and passion fruit granita. The main course of Margaret River Wagyu, surrounded by beef jus with a hint of spice, is a culinary achievement. The dessert is a silky smooth 70% local dark chocolate sorbet with premium quality and a touch of earthy truffle. Petits fours of khao lam choux and fish sauce toffee accompany lotus root and bael fruit tea. Wine pairing is creative, featuring several lesser-known matches from a short wine list.