Review

Chef Mirco Keller relocated his Suan Phlu restaurant to this newly converted villa in a Sathorn soi. Décor is bright, furnishings are comfortable, ambience semi-casual, and don’t be surprised by 80’s background music, a favourite of the chef. The menu is a nine-course format with choices. Begin with ethereally light fish mousse of amaebi, trevally, and trout roe with a zesty jus and crunchy prawn crackers. Continue with Australian beef tartare or Bluefin tuna tartare, executed with panache, stylishly plated dice, topped with smoky charred eggplant, and an elegant layer of shiny Hollandaise. Next up, an earthy mushroom cappuccino soup served in a dainty demi-tasse, accompanied by hot from the oven, fluffy potato bread, a petite jar of velvety chicken liver parfait, and a whirl of whipped butter. Restaurant manager Hataichanok Wongsakulchai offers complimentary seconds of soup and bread to all. Following Phuket rock lobster and Spanish octopus, a choice of Australian hanger steak, served with slow-cooked tongue, silky pumpkin, and herbal green gremolata or French quail, with green peas, morels, and foie gras in a glossy truffle sauce. Pre-dessert of mango and passion fruit ice cream with a hit of chili precedes dessert of local Pridi chocolate. A short wine list features biodynamic, organic, and sustainable options. However, chef Mirco’s wine pairing and innovative soft pairing is recommended.