Review

Khu Khao at the Raya Heritage Hotel takes its name from the large rice threshing baskets used years ago when rice was harvested by hand, and these baskets hung overhead in the restaurant. The menu celebrates the concept of crossroads cuisine, Chiang Mai as a melting pot between neighbouring Burma, Laos, China and the Shan State, when traders and settlers would bring their unique dishes, contributing to the richness of the local culinary scene. Begin with Yunnanese rice curd salad with grilled chicken, bean sprouts, and Chinese chives, dressed with a spicy peanut sauce, or choose familiar gaeng liang phak or Thai spicy herbed soup filled with local vegetables. Main courses of Szechuan kung pao gai, wok-fried chicken with organic vegetables, deliver a healthy peppery punch, and vegetarian gaeng kiew waan with avocado in green curry with pumpkin and eggplant is a triumph. Mohinga, Burmese fermented rice noodles with curried fish in an aromatic ginger broth with lemongrass, is complex, flavourful and recommended. Desserts are relatively simple, including khaniom kho kati of sweet coconut glutinous rice balls in coconut milk or classic mor gaeng, of Thai taro custard with coconut milk, palm sugar and sweetcorn crumble as a fitting end. The drinks offering includes a limited number by glass, including several notable Thai wines from GranMonte.