Review

The restaurant resides in a 130-year-old teak tree mansion near the Old City. Originally the first general store in Chiang Mai, and still owned by descendants of the family, the beautifully renovated building is a historical spectacle, within which one may sample traditional Lanna cuisine. One can appreciate each painstakingly presented dish, through its depth in culinary craft and the aesthetic detail inherent in Lanna culinary delights. The menu also showcases specialty Shan Tai Yai recipes originating from northern Myanmar. Starters include yam bai cha muk, a tangy flavour combination of fermented tea leaves tossed in a crunchy salad with toasted nuts. Tam khanun blends meaty jackfruit and herbs into a luscious spicy dip served with crispy pork scratchings. Wholesome curry dishes are a go-to, with the rich, warming hung lay moo with tender pork and ook gai, showcasing an earthy, and herbal sauce-coated, stewed chicken. Regional desserts include grilled mango sticky rice, a deconstruction of this classic dish, and khao mao gorn rad gati presenting warm coconut dough balls coated in a crushed unripe rice crumb, creating a pleasingly soft chewy texture, enhanced by a coconut milk dip. Kiti Panit is a master class in modern Lanna dishes replicating traditional techniques, as authentic as the restaurant’s storied ambience.