Review

Located in a house in Soi Suan Phlu, the petite restaurant is cosy with bottle-green walls adorned with framed black and white photos, reflecting the sense of dining in a private residence. Executive chef Dimitrios Moudios gives classic favourites a reimagined modern update, his menu showcasing the essence of Thai royal cuisine in today’s food culture while honouring the past. Begin with appetisers, a trio of goong saawn glin or shrimp, som saa, pickled garlic, peanuts and lime leaves; satay lua or pork and pineapple skewers with cashew nut sauce; and yam dtaling pling of bilimbi, squid and pig ear salad, a tasty start. Continue with laab of wagyu beef topped with caviar and gaaeng rawaaeng or grey pomfret curry given a lift with black truffle. Next, is yam chompu of scallop, rose apple and radish, showcasing fresh Thai flavours. Nam phrik of sweet potato agedashi precedes a highlight of massaman curry with 14-day aged duck accompanied by crispy roti. Then a family-style serving of beef short rib curry, fish soup, lobster and yam salad. Desserts follow: first som choon with coconut cream, champagne granita and dried shrimp, then sago with pandan syrup and passion fruit, and finally chamuang sorbet. The eclectic wine pairing is well-chosen.