Review

Loin translates as ‘illusion’ in Thai, a positive understatement for this tucked-away fine dining venue specialising in Thai-inspired tasting menu presentations. From the stark and moody contrast lighting and abstract décor to the set pairing menus exhibiting culinary creativity and scientific innovation, expect the unexpected. The set course menu servings are fine art exhibits, delivered from the open kitchen to the communal dining table, displaying refined skill in both the visual and oral experience. Menus change every season, with such titles as ‘The Odyssey’, a masterful epic taste adventure curated by guest chef Wuttisak and head chef Patharapan. The 6-course cocktail pairing menu invites the diner to explore the textures and flavours prior to reading the ingredients of each dish. Servings are named after regions of Thailand, highlighting specialty ingredients. Deconstructed som tam is presented in a cubic array of salmon and vegetable terrine, with liquid nitrogen som tam sauce flowing throughout. Boat noodle soup is a clear consomme, with deep rich flavours accompanying premium wagyu beef and basil oil. Re-imagined pad Thai incorporates a piquant shrimp mousse and crunchy charcoal pasta drizzled with Loin’s signature sauce. Chilled vanilla agar, banana, and red bean jelly topped with refreshing watermelon granita satiate for the finale. The pairing cocktails or mocktails are carefully devised to add significant depth to each dish.