Review

Everyone appreciates a restaurant with a tale to tell. And Ms.Jigger, the plush lobby venue at the exemplary Kimpton Maa-Lai, rocks its fanciful backstory with panache. Channeling the elegance of a well-heeled traveller with a taste for la dolce vita and everything Italian, the location exudes flair and class. Yet, while the whimsical concept has clearly been pored over, the culinary side of the operation keeps things simple yet beautifully refined. Indeed, the vibe here eschews pretension and overt risk-taking in favour of an approachable food philosophy that will appeal to anyone who cherishes high-quality cooking with equally stellar ingredients. This elevated ethos is at play throughout proceedings. Arancini, stuffed and deep-fried rice balls, are a delicious snack staple around Italy, but here they are taken to a higher level courtesy of wild mushrooms and black truffle zest. Similarly, a twist on the standard Caprese is delivered using hickory wood-smoked black buffalo mozzarella. Main dishes are equally compelling. Simple cacio e pepe risotto carnaroli is nudged towards the stratosphere by adding Argentine red-prawn tartare. Tagliata di manzo of grilled sliced Angus rib-eye, rocket leaves, parmesan, and balsamic reduction dispenses with unnecessary frills to allow the peerless dish foundations to shine. Accompany all with a bottle of Italian vino from the extensive wine list.