Review

The word “opus” most frequently refers to a seminal work, either literary or musical. But the meaning resonates in a culinary sense at this long-standing Silom fixture where an advanced aesthetic sense, and artful cooking, combine to fashion something consistently rewarding. The venue’s lasting popularity with a stylish crowd speaks volumes about its enduring appeal. Opus thrives due to a combination of smart management and culinary excellence. At the helm is Alex Morabito, whose expertise as a wine connoisseur shines through in a collection boasting over 400 Italian wines. One could easily spend a delightful evening lounging in the restaurant’s plush leather chairs, savouring a Tuscan wine alongside a platter of Italian tapas featuring delights like arancini, carpaccio, and calamari. Yet, Opus’s ambitions extend beyond this. Dishes like creamy burratina from Apulia with 24-month aged Parma ham highlight a commitment to simplicity and quality ingredients — the fundamental essence of Italian cuisine. There’s plenty of flair in evidence too, showcased by an elegant capesante featuring pan-seared and gratin Hokkaido sea-scallops with a capsicum sauce. Opus excels with main courses including perfectly salted, fillet of Andaman red snapper with cuttlefish and taggiasca olives, and a tagliolini nudged towards lofty heights by the presence of juicy Argentinian prawns and spicy nduja pork.