Review

The resplendent entrance adjacent to the Radisson Suites opens to a palatial setting with seating sufficient for parties big and small. Chef Ashwani and the team can be seen busy at work in the impressive open kitchen, showcased by the grand tandoori grills. The service team goes about their work with an obvious sense of fun, happy to explain the origins of menu items, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Bhel is a North-Indian street food staple, here fashionably upgraded with smashed avocado mixed with mint and tamarind and a creamy yoghurt sitting atop a bed of puffed rice, presented with dry ice to add mystery. A vegetarian trio of shredded beetroot, tandoor Portobello mushroom, and Lucknow tikka potato and yellow lentil patty compares well with a tandoor meat selection of tiger prawn, New Zealand lamb rib, and garlic-flavoured chicken tikka. Mains are typically creamy and buttery with morel mountain mushrooms, flown from India at fifteen thousand baht a kilo, as evidenced in a thick, mildly spicy sauce. Butter chicken is, well, full-dairy and perfect for a wide choice of naans and breads. Finish with a very filling dessert of chocolate sphere with kulfi ice cream immersed in thick chocolate paste, perched on more chocolate, a great way to wind down the meal. A comprehensive cocktail and beer list accompanies a moderate wine selection.