Review

Riva del Fiume is a timeless classic presided over by executive chef Andrea Accordi, with the dining room effortlessly run by manager Michele Audino. While the à la carte menu evolves, diner favourites remain. Begin with cicchetti to whet the appetite: arancini balls stuffed with saffron risotto and creamy buffalo mozzarella or sea urchin tiramisu with snow peas and lemon mascarpone. The culinary skill of making the complex appear simple shows in duck and chicken liver parfait with cherries and Noto almond. Sea bream carpaccio with bitter orange refreshes, whilst a new addition of tuna tonnato with Kristal caviar is a winner. Fassona beef tartare with bettelmatt cheese or artichoke with stracciatella and olive emulsion make choosing difficult. Pasta dishes are perfectly done, with stand-out new ones of maccheroncini with brown crab and baby calamari, and gnocchi filled with buffalo mozzarella and langoustine, whilst the enduring lasagnetta bolognese baked in soapstone remains. Main courses include kinki fish roasted with wild fennel and black olives in a rich sauce made from the head. Beef rib with girolle, smoked potato, and black truffle is stylish, aromatic, comforting, and satisfying. Desserts range from chocolate platter and signature flaky vanilla millefoglie to traditional tiramisu with amaretto ice cream. The wine list matches the level of cuisine with many hidden gems.