Review

Salvia at the Grand Hyatt Erawan is undoubtedly refined, but the cosmopolitan clientele brings a chic and subtly playful character to the venue. Most come for chef Gabrielle Olivieri’s gastronomic souvenirs from his childhood spent in Emilia-Romagna, the countryside region of Italy known for producing Parmigiano Reggiano and Bolognese sauce. Chef Olivieri heads one of the most beloved Italian osterias in town, along with his talented kitchen team, friendly service staff, and a trusty wood-fired oven. Before the first course, diners are served an incredibly fluffy and crusty warm focaccia, and the dishes that follow continue to impress. Affirming the restaurant’s mastery of dough, pizzas are sublime and reflect the obsession with premium ingredients. Likewise, with mains, passion for authenticity shines through in each dish. Spaghetti alle vongole is executed with just enough juice from the white wine reduction, fresh clams, and olive oil. Request additional shavings of bottarga for an extra umami kick. Tagliata di Angus, grass-fed Australian Angus rib-eye steak, served on a bed of rocket tossed with Grana Padano and balsamic dressing, is imbued with flavours and a lusciously tender texture. For dessert, try panna cotta al miele with polenta-almond crumble, subtle tanginess from persimmons, and Tinello red label balsamic. The stylish bar offers crafted speciality drinks along with a sophisticated wine list.