Review

This unassuming old town spot from Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Saki Hoshino, the culinary power couple behind successful ventures, including the stellar Nawa and newcomer Kwann, continues to hold iconic status as a must-visit. Yet, despite the accolades, it remains a humble, minimally decorated, industrial-style space seating diners at ever-so petite wooden tables with pop music playing from tabletop Marshall speakers. The menu offers a varied, concise selection of familiar Thai dishes that surprise with subtle twists and elevations. No dish proves this better than the legendary Jay Joe crab Thai omelette. An omelette that has achieved a cult following, resembling a vast fluffy cloud, oozes out creamy orange egg yolks that flow lava-like into the surrounding gravy sauce with giant crab lumps in abundance. Best enjoyed with steamed jasmine rice and drizzles of Samlor’s selection of homemade chilli sauces. Famous moo ping smoked pork rib, which is an unexpected but splendidly rewarding twist on a familiar classic, need not overshadow other dishes. Organic pork ribs from Ratchaburi are perfectly smoked with coconut shells for a surprising tenderness and sublime aroma. Desserts continue the theme of memorable childhood dishes taking on a grown-up persona. The highlight is roti with flambéed banana; every child-at-heart’s dream dessert.