Review

Santiaga sits above Billy’s Smokehouse with two floors of differing Mexican dining options. On the first, a multi-course tasting menu; on the second, an extensive à la carte. A lively ambiance filters upstairs from the smokehouse below. Begin with creamy, rich, and satisfying guacamole, charred herbs elevating this regional staple. Continue with oxtail quesadilla, rich braised beef tail blended with mozzarella, and layers of piquant avocado salsa with a slightly gooey, crunchy Gouda cheese crust. Partner these with a glass of wine from a short list or seek out tempting mezcals or tequilas from an incredible range. Carnitas, or little meats, a traditional dish made from frying meat in its fat and usually made with pork, is a recommendation. A mushroom version, containing thick and meaty eryngii oyster mushrooms, is a worthy alternative. A variety of salads is available, including the Santiaga of grilled baby cos bathed in charred elote, corn, dressing with rocket, tomato and drizzled with tepache dressing, a fermented beverage made from pineapple. For meat lovers: wood-grilled pork chop with grilled apple and red mole, slow-roasted chili-coated lamb shank, and tender ribeye steak fajitas. A rich dark chocolate cake with hints of chili is a perfect finale. There are non-alcoholic Mexican options, including horchata of rice milk with a hint of cinnamon.