Review

SAT at the Trisara resort, recently relaunched in the location previously occupied by the pioneer of sustainable Thai fine dining, PRU. With chef Rudttborn “Oat” Pumsirinun, and executive chef Chalermchai “Kla” Prakobkrit, this is a fine-tuned concept focusing on Southern Thai classics offering a tasting menu and à la carte. Ingredients are sourced from across Thailand, while collaborating with local communities for the best seasonal produce. Specialties include pae yang smoon prai, wood-fired grilled marinated goat fillet and lin wua loba yang, grilled ox tongue caramelized with star anise, cardamom and black soya sauce. Popular Southern soups include gaeng som pla gao, spicy sour broth with grouper fillet, baby mangosteen, and hot basil, and tom som ragam pla, tropical sour broth with amberjack, snakefruit, and Malabar tamarind. For simpler dishes, chu chee pla, of red curry and coconut cream with mackerel or seabass, dependent on availability, and pla muek phad dum, stir-fried local squid with black ink, garlic, lemongrass and salted egg yolk are highly recommended. The Southern staple of moo hong braised fatty pork belly, slow-cooked in a rich dark sauce, is excellent. Accompaniments include sautéed Andaman leaves with garlic and oyster sauce and stir-fried malindjo leaves with free-range chicken eggs. Desserts include traditional gluay buad chee of bananas simmered in coconut milk with coconut ice cream.