Review

Since opening in 2012, Somtum Der has been a trailblazer of elevated Isan food in Bangkok, still going strong thanks to its formula of refined, but potently spiced, takes on the Isaan culinary repertoire. Here in a warm wood-panelled venue, diners can choose som tum variants ranging from classic som tum Thai and som tum kai kem, papaya salad with salted egg, to obscure regional takes such as tum suo Sakon Nakorn, which arrives with freshwater crab and kratin beans. Alternatively, try punchily spiced larb moo tod and crispy pork meatballs, which go well with craft beers and cocktails with Thai infusions. Choose from a long list of northern specialities, from laab, ground meat salad, to tom saep and hot and sour pork rib soup. A longtime favourite is the signature sapoak gai tod der, deep-fried chicken thigh with a crunchy exterior and moist, flavourful flesh easily competing with the best. Charcoal-grilled meats are impressive, Isan wagyu beef brisket and beef tongue, both stand out, and super-juicy kor moo yang pork neck reaches a similar level of culinary excellence. The dessert offering is concise but features childhood favourites of sago in young coconut milk and Thai-style iced kajang as great ways to finish, and the fruit and jelly frappes are legendary. A short wine and beer offering suffices.