Review

The much accoladed Su Va Na is Thailand’s only underwater restaurant located within a state-of-the-art aquarium containing over 25,000 sea creatures. While the setting is truly spectacular the cuisine is equally stellar, with a mermaid show as an interlude. The menu showcases premium imported ingredients and the best bounty of Thailand crafted into innovative dishes. Chef Atanu Nath brings his experience from storied establishments to create a sophisticated culinary journey. The degustation begins with canapés presented over an elegant glass box containing seashells, lending a sense of place, while emotive music plays in the background, and sharks and rays effortlessly glide past. The journey continues with a light chawanmushi, delicately scented with tom kha herbs, set around Phuket blue crab and a serving of Hua Hin caviar. Warm Surat Thani oyster is paired with chanterelles and vibrant green peas, preceding fermented garlic glazed gindara, the cod glistening under the subdued lighting. Clever Chiang Mai sorrel culinary combinations with kefir gelato and shiro miso ice cream with caviar and toasted kombu oil are trademark signatures showcasing kitchen talent. Japanese wagyu with nasu moro misu and kizami wasabi is executed with precision and care. The dessert of the day may feature Phuket chocolate and subtle durian combination. The wine list is global. However, the go-to here is the carefully curated wine pairing.