Review

Taan occupies the top floor of the Siam@Siam Design Hotel, with views of Bangkok’s cityscape and nighttime skyline. The dining room exudes an air of comfortable elegance, showcasing Thai artefacts and striking Thai artwork. Chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsip leads the kitchen, curating ever-changing tasting menus celebrating ingredients from across Thailand sourced from independent farmers and fishermen. A comprehensive wine list is offered; the pairing features Gran Monte wines from Khao Yai, beginning with a crémant and featuring viognier, Sakuna rosé, syrah, and a sweet bussaba, chenin blanc, semillon, and muscat blend. Menus adopt a different theme each season. Highlights of recent experiences include ngao-nghod, a dish titled bread and bisque consisting of baked steamed pang pao, smoked pangasius with a Portuguese-inspired bisque, and a tasty elevated dish named bota noodle, assembled from hand-cut pork noodles, bathed in bloody chocolate emulsion, scented with basil, anise and topped with a vermicelli crisp. Other notable dishes include deep-fried fresh river krill with a clever cotton candy kaffir lime zest, and kanom jeen of Burmese-influenced vermicelli with clown knife fish balls. The main course of khao mok with biryani, local wagyu and oxtail soup is a joy to consume. A contemporary-styled moh gang, of pumpkin egg custard, kaffir lime ice cream and shredded prawn completes the meal.