Review

Situated on an island at the water’s edge of the Mae Kok River is The Reverie by Katatani rooftop restaurant with memorable views of the surrounding city. The restaurant offers indoor dining or sought-after alternative in drape-adorned mini pavilions on the outdoor terrace. Begin with refreshing Chiang Rai river prawns, served warm in piquant tomato and avocado salsa, surrounded by a ribbon of white wine cream and dotted with fruity mango gel. Or choose pan-fried foie gras garnished with roasted pumpkin foam, aged balsamic vinegar and balsamic caviar balls. Follow with a carefully crafted soup, either rich and earthy mushroom with imported porcini and chanterelles, topped with an ethereally light truffle foam or a silky smooth cream of asparagus with shrimp, slices of almond and drizzled with parsley oil. Non-steak options include grilled duck breast accompanied by sweet potato-date mousse and crispy pistachio crumbs and pan-seared Pacific salmon trout on a chickpea puree with velvet Hollandaise and a sprinkling of edamame for contrasting crunch. Choose Australian wagyu striploin or ribeye, served on a stone slab with sides and sauces; neither will disappoint. Argentinian tenderloin can be either for one, or a more significant cut for sharing. A short selection of desserts includes crème brûlée and pineapple tarte tatin. The concise wine list includes a limited choice by glass.