Review

The Smokaccia Laboratory, opened late 2021 by Brigitta Houkamp and chef Luca Mascolo, is the result of a vision for an exquisitely made bread named Smokaccia. The restaurant has now evolved to serve a diner experience unlikely to be found across the globe. Two pivotal menus, vegan and non-vegan, take you on an 18-course culinary journey of incredible creativity and combinations. Smokaccia bread still features in several courses, but now the scientific and innovative approach to creating flavour-packed dishes enables Smokaccia Laboratory to offer fine dining amongst the best in Thailand. Dishes dazzle, throughout both tasting menus, from the drama of an exploding vegan foie gras with fermented coconut yoghurt, Chiang Mai figs, and pineapple glass, to a fish dish assembled from smoked pike roe and skin. This is sophisticated yet playful dining with a casual ambience. The pairings are world-class, from Italian gems to naturally fermented beers and an adventurous soft selection. A palate cleanser of homemade Apulian tarallo, a nod to chef Luca’s roots, is wrapped with 24-month-aged parma ham and partnered with Thai melon ice-cream. A5 wagyu is accompanied by a local oyster in tempura batter, both reflecting traditional ingredient matches, with ultra-modern interpretation and technical talent. Petit fours are accompanied by a memorable finale, whether organic Thai tea or chef Luca’s unforgettable limoncello.